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Q&A: Why Are The AKU Template Files So Different?

Q&A: Why Are The AKU Template Files So Different?

Question:

Why do the Aku files differ so strong by their shape from size to size ( for example the outline of the 5´3 simons compared to the 5´5 simons) ? does it has to be like that or are these all just different interpretations of the mini simmons ? And are the measurements of the thickness right ? A 5´5 board with 53 liters seems to me like a little bit too much ? or do mini simmons boards simply have to be like that ?

Answer:

The AKU files and shapes differ because they are all different designs.

There are likely a million variations of the Mini Simmons design and thus the AKU files that we offer are simply a starting point to jump off into your own particular expression.

Mini Simmons shapes tend to have similar characteristics like being shorter than the average shortboard and wider than the average fish but beyond that there could be a myriad of alterations in the thickness, bottom contour, fin set-up, nose shape, tail shape, etc.

My best recommendation is: shape, ride, shape again.

Mini Simmons Bottom Contours?

Mini Simmons Bottom Contours?

Question:

Hello, Been trying to get some info off sways regarding the bottom contours of the Mini Simmons I am about to shape.

Any chance you can give me an honest opinion based on your experience?

MSS Answer: 

My opinion would be to leave the bottom alone on your first board.

Save any bottom shaping to future shapes, when you start to tweak the original design and get a feel for how a Mini Simmons rides.

All my favorite Mini Simmons surfboards either have no to very little contour on the bottom.

I’d love to hear other people’s opinions in the comments.

Shaping Mini Simmons Rails

Shaping Mini Simmons Rails

I love every aspect of shaping except turning the rails.

Not only are they tedious, but you got to do them twice and try and get them symmetrical.

A buddy of mine once told me to take a finished board with rails that I like and use them as a template. He recommended cutting out some foam and shaping the rail into the foam and then to use that foam template to guide the shaping process. I thought it was great advice, but three years later I still haven’t done it.

Rails, I really dislike them.

http://www.makeasurfboardblog.com/5-shaping-rails/

I still use the same technique that I leaned about a decade ago in JC’s shaping DVD. I make two rail bands, one 2 inches from the edge and another 4 inches. Then I mark three spots on the rail itself, all between 1 and 1.25 inches from the bottom. Then I use my planner to shape those bands into the deck.

Scientific? Hardly.

I wish they had a CNC machine just for the rails, I would buy it for sure.

Or even better, I wish there were dudes that just did rails and you could open up the yellow pages and look for them just like you look for a plumber. For $40 you could call them up and they would come over and finish your rails.

But no such luck, just me and my tools and those damn rails.

I did some research on rails, surfline says, “visualize and plan how much of the middle part of the rail you will leave untouched.”

How about the whole rail?

I should try that, make a board with no rails . . . I wonder?

Ok, that is a ridiculous idea but I had to say it.

Back to visualizing I guess, here is the surfline article if you want to check it. (http://www.surfline.com/gear/how-to-shape/turning-rails.cfm)

In another article Greenlight  Surf  Supply has decided to just simplify rails and suggests that there are only two: boxy and knifey.

Dudes, I wish it were that simple.

But I get where they are coming from, essentially what they are saying is that a knify rail cuts into the wave and a boxy rail floats on top of the wave. Ok, I get that and agree.

http://greenlightsurfsupply.com/surfboard-building-guide—shaping-rails.aspx

Rusty also breaks rails down into two types, 50/50 and down-turned.

Finally, someone gives some riding advice.

Rusty says about the 50/50, “this type of rail lacks a sharp edge on the bottom, water can more freely flow out from the bottom of the board as you plane down the face of the wave. This buoyancy and a lack of edge make a board with rounder (50/50) rails much harder to maneuver.”

He goes on to talk about the down-turn’s sharp edge, “holds through into the tail and helps to capture the flow of water from the nose and keep it underneath the board so that it creates lift as it runs against the fins in a tighter manner.”

Bravo Rusty, you-da man.

http://www.rustysurfboards.com/academy/board-fundamentals/rails/

Watch this video as he schools us on tail shapes and rail design.

Rail Design Pictures here https://www.google.com/search?q=shaping+rails&safe=off&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Mrh3Ur31A6iqiQL64IHgCA&ved=0CEIQsAQ&biw=1826&bih=908#q=shaping+surfboard+rails&safe=off&tbm=isch

Ok that it for now, go get yourself a blank and try one yourself.

2

Video: Carrozza Surfboards El Stumpo Mini Simmons

Video: Carrozza Surfboards El Stumpo Mini Simmons. Drawing off of the current Mini Simmons surfboard revolution we came up with this Mini Simmons inspired surfboard design. Very low rocker, very wide template throughout the nose to tail, and some solid double concave make this board very fast and loose, the tail has a nice wide V for responsiveness.

Designed for ankle to head high surf that is sloppy and/or mushy. Our Mini Simmons surfboard design blazes in mushy and soft waves. (Pictured 5’5’x 22”x 2 3/8 ”) Recommended Dimensions 4’10”- 5’10” tall, 20”- 22 ½” wide, and 2 ¼” – 3 ¼” thick. This mini Simmons surfboard inspired design will get you out having fun on the smallest, weakest of days.

Tomo Inspired Mini Simmons

Tomo Inspired Mini Simmons

The details from the shaper:

  • 5’8 x 22 3/4″
  • shaped from a burford 7’7 mini mal blank
  • 6oz bottom, with a 4 and 6 oz deck
  • full length concave with max 1/4″ concave under the front foot
  • into channel tail max 3mm vee
  • about 1/8″ concave in the nose between the points
  • It doesn’t have the funky nose double concave as per the tomo design
  • Is a fairly hard rail until mid board. then softens up a fair bit
  • front fins toed at 1 deg, rears are parallel

Final dimensions 5’9 x 22 1/4″ x 2 15/16″

What’s up with those fins? Has anyone tried that setup?

2

Ode to Shaper Barry Snyder

Ode to Shaper Barry Snyder. Sometime I find a shaper that is not content with the way things are done. Barry is one of those shapers and he has taken the Mini Simmons design and put his own twist on the shape.

If you read his about me page on his website he says, “I believe a lobotomized circus monkey can sand out the grooves on a CNC’d surfboard blank.” The shaping industry is changing fast and shapers are moving more and more toward machining their designs, the OG hand-shapers are fading into the shadows of the craft—but Berry is holding strong.

Now, let’s see what he has to say about the Mini Simmons.

After building and riding a ‘traditional’ Mini Simmons Berry was discontent with it’s non-turnability.

How does he change the Mini Simmons shape?

In his words, these are the things he changed in his 2.0 version of the shape:

  • Mellow concave w/ wide bevel running along rails.
  • Lots of Vee with a deep double concave coming off tail.
  • Diamond tail that is thinly foiled.

The new shape turns on a dime and he reminds us that constant refinement = progression.

Here is his result:

 

[ilink url=”http://www.barrysnyderdesigns.com/” target=”_blank”]For more on Berry click this link.[/ilink]

 

Mini Simmons PU Surfboard Blank

Mini Simmons PU Surfboard Blank

It’s about time someone started making Mini Simmons blanks.

mini simmons blank

 

6’4” Mini Simmons PU surfboard blank

Units

Length

Stern

Tail

Mid

Nose

Bow

Tail Rocker

Thickness

Nose Rocker

Inches

6ft 4in 20 22 24 22 1/2 20 2 3 1/4  2

cm

191.8 50.8 55.9 61 57 50.8 5.1 7.6 5.1

 

– See more at: http://www.homeblown.co.uk/product/359/